29/12/2014 14:02

Men's fashion trends for 2015

Menswear seems to be having a moment: January sees the sixth instalment of the biannual London Collections: Men shows, which now encompasses a fourth day to accommodate the number of designers and buyers who will be in attendance.

Fortunately, the scope of men’s style has grown as fast as the business that supports it: from the experimental to the gratifyingly traditional. Expect accessories to be more severe and men’s jewellery to grow in importance. ‘‘Serious’’ watches – with perpetual calendars and minute repeaters – will replace those statement timepieces that threatened to break the wrist of all but the beefiest bodybuilder. A few frayed friendship bracelets will no longer hold an audience, as men discover the power of genuine, hand-wrought ‘‘mangles’’.

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Designers including Thomas Sabo, Tateossian, Stephen Einhorn and Stephen Webster have been producing intricately woven wristwear in various materials, from hi-tech carbon-fibre to more traditional precious metals, including white gold, platinum and palladium. The results are macho rather than butch and favour gemstones over diamonds.

The field of men’s tailoring will almost certainly be dialled down – and not before time as we leave the era of the dandy. Expect two-piece, single-breasted slim-silhouetted suiting to roost on rails from the high street to the increasingly contemporary-looking establishments along London’s Savile Row. A standard-bearer in this respect is Gieves & Hawkes.

But with all this streamlining, fit becomes paramount – which is why an increasing number of previously ready-to-wear only brands will be offering a made-to-measure service; a step down from full bespoke, but an ideal vantage point from which to discover the joys of a perfectly fitted garment. Fortunately, everyone from Burberry to the recently recharged Hardy Amies have spent a lot of time perfecting patterns.

But for those for whom tailoring remains, well, too buttoned-up, the good news is that the slow shift towards a more casual wardrobe during the week will gain even greater pace – thanks to those brands to whom the rest of us look for guidance on how to master what Tom Ford has christened luxury sports chic. In this market, the fabrics are all super-fine – cashmere, Merino wool, Sea Island cotton – and the finish is alluring artisanal. The vibe is ‘‘uptown/downtime’’, expressed in shearling gilets, ‘‘dress denim’’ and ultra-soft loungewear. Here, the revolution has already started at Kilgour, with the recently unveiled ‘‘tracksuit’’ that artfully mimics the look but not the feel of a traditional tailoring for those who’ve grown up believing that sportswear offers the most relaxed fit possible.

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